Closely Knit: Despite this year’s mild winter, designers didn’t shy away from featuring snow-ready wares. Indeed, it was the humble cable knit sweater that provided
the biggest surprise during New York Fashion Week.
Derek Lam paired his with red carpet-worthy skirts, dressing up the traditionally dowdy wardrobe staple, while
Yigal Azrouël’s exaggerated knit links and chains were used to create discreet cut-outs (and, perhaps a bit of circulation should it get too hot). At
3.1 Phillip Lim, the sweater was worn upside down, and seemingly inside-out, adding a post-modernist twist. But few designers paid homage to the iconic pattern like
Tommy Hilfiger, who showed a trompe l’oeil cable knit dress.
Show Some Skin: PETA was notably quiet this year, so attendees were left to wonder whether the industry had finally phased out the use of animal skin. Gauging by the fall collections, the answer remains “no.” In addition to plentiful fur and shearling accents, leather was the focal point of many runway ensembles. At Yigal Azrouël and
Alexander Wang, it was a head-to-toe affair, while at
Proenza Schouler it came in
woven doses. Some designers, including
Peter Som and
Doo.Ri, upgraded skinny leather leggings with looser,
trouser-like versions. Meanwhile, patent leather returned in a big way, shimmering on the runways of
Thakoon, Derek Lam,
Tory Burch, and
Diane von Furstenberg.
Black and Blue All Over: While the
stand-out color of the season was
ox blood, the hot new pairing is
black and blue. Some shows went with navy (as seen on the blanket coats at
Rag & Bone), while others chose cobalt (including high-sheen options at
Prabal Gurung), and a few (
Band of Outsiders,
Bill Blass) integrated bright and dark shades of azure. Black-and-blue looked just as good on the knee-grazing wool jackets at
Billy Reid as they did on the sleek, body-con leather jackets and cut-out dresses at
Kevork Kiledjian. At Proenza Schouler the black and blue movement converged with contrasting materials for a pleasing, and refreshingly urbane, effect.