Although Paris Fashion Week still remains to be seen and analyzed, styles on the fall 2012 runways in New York and London already point to one significant trend. From the deconstructed cat eye that evokes sixties chic to “skinny” hair that pairs nicely with the
wearable clothing on recent display, makeup artists and hair stylists are turning to the classics for inspiration.
Headbangers: Celebrities often take their style cues from the runway, but it seems that one new look may have been borne on the red carpet—the return of the headband. After the hairpiece made
multiple appearances at the Golden Globes, it was featured prominently at
Oscar de la Renta,
Doo.Ri,
Carolina Herrera, and
Moschino Cheap & Chic. The form varied (jeweled, skinny, knotted, ballerina-esque) and the styling ranged (some kept hair down, other pulled it back), but it injected all with a touch of regality. While it might just be coincidence, stylist Orlando Pita saw it coming, predicting just a few days in during Fashion Week
that headbands would have “a big moment this season.”
Cat’s Meow: The cat eye—that thin flick of black at the corner of the lid—first appeared on spring ’12 runways. It’s returned for fall, but with a twist: the brighter and more outrageous the color, the better. At
Anna Sui, the winged lines were cobalt blue; at
3.1 Phillip Lim, red; at
VPL, chartreuse; at
Narciso Rodriguez, orange. Those who did stick with black took
a deconstructed approach. There was just an inky smudge on the outer edges of the eyes at
Erdem, making it look like the liner was floating.
Mary Katrantzou and
Altuzarra also showed a disjointed cat eye, with the geometric lines on both sides of the lid.
The Skinny: If the 2000s were the decade of big hair—think Amy Winehouse and Snooki—then the 2010s may be the era of follicle deflation. In New York, the downtown labels went low-key. At
Rag & Bone, Altuzarra,
Alexander Wang, and
Proenza Schouler,
the keyword was “real girl,” with models looking like they didn’t bother getting their tresses styled beforehand. Instead of the usual aggressively sleek ’dos,
Cushnie et Ochs paired toned-down, center-parted waves with sexy dresses. Similarly, at
Christopher Kane, texture replaced volume. Paul Hanlon, the stylist at Proenza Schouler, described it as “skinny hair,”
pointing to Kate Moss—the icon of the decade before big hair—as his inspiration.